Bonnie Gull Seafood Shack

I've never been a big fan of cats.  This marginal aversion has, however, recently intensified to become an active dislike, after a frenzied feline broke my camera. 

I won't bore you with the details but it involved a Greek Island, the perfect vista, the self-timer, and a rogue paw.  I'm resigned to snapping with my iPhone until it's fixed. 

One thing that the moggies and I could form a friendship over is a serious love of seafood and so, upon returning from holiday, it was off to the newly-opened Bonnie Gull to drown my sorrows in shellfish. 

As we ducked under the striped, seaside shack awning we were greeted with a Captain's welcome.

Inside is small but perfectly formed, with some wonderfully nautical touches that almost make you forget that you're somewhere in Fitzrovia rather than on the Cornish coast. 

We kicked off with some Bloody Marys, each of which was topped with a plump and juicy oyster - a pretty inspired touch. 

With our minds firmly fixed on mollusks, we surveyed the 'catch of the day' map to decide which of the British oyster varieties to sample next... and settled on four of each - wild Loch Ryan Natives, Portland Pearls and Mersea Rocks. 

Having consumed our recommended monthly allowance of Zinc, we then plumped for the North Sea haddock and chips and the sea bass with fennel and grapes.  

Sustainable, fresh, British seafood at its best. 

The restaurant is now fully open and you can even pop in for brunch at the weekend.  I reckon 3 or 4 oyster Bloody Marys would cure even the most raging of hangovers or, at the very least, ease the pain of a cat breaking your camera. 

L'Enclume Restaurant

Nestled in the heart of the southern Lake District is an enchanting medieval village called Cartmel. 

When exploring its charming lanes and stone passageways you may discover a babbling brook...

  

ancient country pubs with eclectic garden furniture...

whitewashed gates leading to diminutive cottages...

and, if you're really, really lucky, L'Enclume. 

You may be familiar with owner and chef Simon Rogan from his recent stint on the Great British Menu.  He has, however, been cooking up a storm in this beautiful part of the country for a good few years.

Simon uses seasonal, local, often foraged ingredients and turns them into some of the most innovative and exciting dishes I have ever had the pleasure of eating.

Seated in the conservatory, with a view onto the lush garden, we were asked if we would like the 5 course or the 16 course lunch - no menu, just those two choices.

Needless to say, we plumped for the 16-courser and what followed was a 4 hour feast that I will remember until my dying day.  In fact, I'd have happily carked it after coffee, safe in the knowledge that I'd just experienced a veritable food memory. 

Now, I'm no food blogger and I'm certainly not a restaurant critic, so this won't be a dissection of each course.  Instead, here is my best attempt at capturing each delectable dish for your viewing pleasure.

Oyster pebbles

Dock pudding with nettle emulsion

Cream cheese wafers

Asparagus with bay shrimp

Cod 'yolk', sage cream, salt and vinegar

 

Kohlrabi dumplings in Westcombe, hyssop and purple sprouting

Valley venison, charcoal oil, mustard and fennel

Sea scallop with spiced strawberry, grilled cauliflower and coastal leaves

Cucumbers, pineapple weed, lobster and rat tails

Eel smoked with wood sorrel, marrow and onions

 

Lightly smoked Bay bass, cockles, courgettes and cotton lavender

Reg's guinea hen and offal, turnip and elderflower

Iced chamomile, spruce, celery and black pepper

Cumbrian slate, gooseberry, apple and lemon verbena

Cherries with meadowsweet, hazelnut and apple

Gingerbread and iced watermint*

* which comes with a confession: I was so enraptured by the whole experience by this point, that I forgot to take a photo until I'd almost finished! 

With friendly and informative service and an excellent wine list, I would recommend making a detour to visit L'Enclume if you're ever in the North West... actually, it's worth a trip even if you're in NW London.